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With the AC adapter unplugged, the batteries provide current through the two red leads, and the return path goes up the black lead to the AC socket, through the closed switch, and back to the batteries. Now, the batteries are connected into the circuit almost as before. You already have the built-in red lead on that center pin, so you may not need additional solder for this connection. Solder one end to the positive terminal of the battery compartment, and solder the other end to the center pin connector (9 o'clock position) on the AC socket. Strip the ends of the red wire the same way. When the AC adapter is not plugged in this provides the return path from the circuit board to the batteries' negative terminal. Solder one end to the negative terminal of the battery compartment, and solder the other end to the NC switch connector (3 o'clock position) on the AC socket. Strip the ends of the black wire (and cut it to a nicer length if desired) to expose about 1/8". This AC socket includes a normally-closed switch on the shell (ground), so that you can power your device as built with the batteries, but when you plug in the adapter the batteries are disconnected (and not shorted to ground or reverse biased). Just move the whole leads as above, and use a couple of whole new wires for the new connections (Step 6). If you cut the existing leads and try to attach the cut ends to the AC socket connectors, the halves will probably be too short to reach sensibly when the device is opened, and you'll have to splice in lengths of wire anyway to make up the difference. WARNING Don't do what I did the first time.
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However, you've disconnected the battery system entirely, so the mobile is not portable (nor will it work if the power goes out). At this point, the project is "complete," in that the AC adapter will provide power. This is the return path for current from the AC adapter back to ground.
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Solder the black lead onto the shell connector (at the 12 o'clock position) of the AC socket. This allows the AC adapter to feed current into the circuit. Make sure you keep track of which terminal is which! Solder the red lead onto the center pin connector (at the 9 o'clock position) of the AC socket. A solder-sucker might be helpful, too, when disconnecting the leads from the battery terminals.ĭisconnect the red and black leads from the battery terminals using the soldering iron, and the solder-sucker if necessary. You could also use a 1/8" Dremel bit, followed by the Dremel ball grinder to enlarge the hole.Ī soldering iron, solder and flux are needed to connect the wires. I found the bits at McMaster-Carr Industrial Supply (items 5941A11 through 5941A14).Ī 21/64" bit will make the exact hole needed for the panel-mount socket. You'll need some tools: The TinyLove mobile is held together with weird triangular-bit screws. A wire stripper will be quite handy, but someone with some skill (not me) could use some small wire-cutters or scissors. Start with 6" lengths and trim them back when doing the soldering (Step 5). I cannibalized mine from some left-over four-conductor signal cable.
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You will also need lengths of thin (24 gauge or smaller) wire, one with black insulation and one with red. At most places you have to by a "universal" adapter, and can't get the sockets at all.įor the TinyLove mobile, which uses 3 AA batteries, I boughtįor your application, choose an adapter with an output voltage that matches the type and number of battery your device uses.
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I ended up going to Radio Shack - they carry specific-voltage adapters, individual tips, and panel-mount sockets to match the tips.
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The parts you need to add an AC adapter are fairly simple, but harder to find than I expected.
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